So, when we last saw our scrappy hero, she had turned her $15 charcoal wool into the shell of a cycling jacket based on Kwik Sew 4017 and was waiting for her lovely map-patterned silk to arrive for the lining.
Once it arrived, the next step was to use it for the pocket linings. The pattern had welt pockets on the front; I had changed those to zipper pockets and added an additional zipper pocket to the left chest. The original pocket bags were designed to just hang loose in the jacket, but my partner and I both felt they should be attached to the jacket seams, so I made some new pattern pieces for them.
I cut them bigger than necessary and sewed them to the zipper tapes so there wouldn’t be any exposed raw edges. Then, making sure I had enough slack so that they wouldn’t tear when the pockets were used, I sewed the bags for the two side pockets to the center front seam and the bag for the chest pocket to the side seam.
I also added the back pocket, lined with the silk fabric, at this point.
I used this tutorial to cut the jacket lining. From that point, though, I was on my own. I wasn’t able to find a tutorial that explained how to line this style of jacket, which has no back facing; there was also the added complication of needing to add elastic to the sleeves and hem, not exactly the type of thing you’re going to find in a typical lined jacket.
I assembled the lining and sewed it to the jacket all the way around the hem and front facings.
I safety-pinned the elastic in the hem and adjusted it to size; once it was right, I sewed the ends to the center front and top-stitched to hold the elastic in place. It was a little fiddly to do, what with the silk wanting to slide around, but I pinned and stitched and unpicked and stitched until it looked good.
I then turned the jacket and lining right side out and slip-stitched the top of the lining to the collar, adding in the pleat at the center back.
For the sleeve hems, I folded under the raw edges of the jacket and lining and top-stitched them together at the edge and also about an inch away. I unpicked the lining seam to insert the elastic.
A bit more top-stitching and it was finished!
You’ll note the sleeves are a little long–that’s because they need to be for the arms-outstretched position you’re in on a bike with drop bars.
Also note the zipper doesn’t reach to the very bottom of the jacket; near the end of the process of making it, he decided he wanted it a bit longer, but didn’t feel like he needed a longer zipper.
You can’t really see it here, but the jacket hem dips on the sides so that the back is a couple of inches longer than the front, also helpful when you’re bent over on a bike with your arms outstretched.
So, what did I learn from making this?
- Use safety pins for fitting–no sticking your honey with straight pins!
- When sewing for someone else, and they tell you something is too long, put off removing the extra as long as possible because you just might need it! I shortened the sleeves and hem on this, then the recipient wanted the extra length back. 😛 I wound up using a 1/4″ seam allowance on both.
- Ditto for width. I had been all conscientious and overlocked the edges of the lining pieces before sewing them together with a 5/8″ seam allowance, then, well, you know the rest. You don’t ever want to try to pick those tiny, tiny stitches out of silk fabric. I got as much as I could, but there’s still some overlocking in there that’s never going to come out, which is just fine with me.
- I’ve said it before, but I’m going to say it again: trust your inner kickass sewer! That big complicated thing with all the steps? You can totally do it. I did a lot of anxiety-driven procrastination on this, but one thing that really helped me was to make a plan. A couple of times during the process, I made a list of the steps I had to do, put them in order, then focused on tackling one step at a time. I also think it helps, when tackling something like this with endless problems to be solved, to have experience making all kinds of different things. The bags I’ve made definitely helped with the pockets and lining.